MTB cranksets and cranks

MTB cranksets and cranks

Simply essential to the proper functioning of a bicycle, the crankset plays a major role. Choosing a crankset is very important as there are many models available. Several parameters must be taken into account to make the right choice. It is necessary to check the compatibility between your crankset and your bottom bracket but also the compatibility with your drivetrain (chain and chainring

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How to choose your MTB crankset

The single chainring has simplified the choice, but not compatibility: the spindle, chainline and crank length determine the setup. Shimano, SRAM, Race Face and e*thirteen cover everything from entry-level to carbon.

Which spindle standard?

This is the point where most installations fail: the crankset spindle must match your frame's bottom bracket.

  • Shimano Hollowtech II : 24 mm spindle, the most common.
  • SRAM DUB : 28.99 mm spindle, specific to the brand.
  • Race Face Cinch and equivalents : 30 mm spindle.
  • The same spindle standard can be fitted to different BSA or Press Fit bottom brackets using suitable spacers.

Which chainline?

  • Boost (52 mm) : the standard on almost all recent MTBs.
  • Super Boost (56 mm) : found on some frames with high tyre clearance.
  • Non-Boost (49 mm) : older frames.
  • An incorrect chainline wears the drivetrain and impairs shifting on the outermost sprockets.

What crank length?

  • 165 to 175 mm, with a clear trend towards 165 and 170 mm in MTB.
  • A shorter crank arm improves ground clearance and reduces pedal strikes on descents.
  • Changing crank length alters your saddle height: adjust it accordingly.

Complete crankset or crank arms only?

On systems with a removable chainring (Direct Mount, Cinch), crank arms alone are sufficient if you keep your chainring. A complete crankset remains simpler when you are also changing the tooth count or chainline.

To find out more: How to choose your MTB crankset

See also: MTB chainrings · Bottom brackets · Drivetrain parts and accessories