How to choose lubricant and grease for your bike?

A clean and well-lubricated bike is the guarantee of smooth drivetrain performance, precise gear shifting and protection against premature wear. Don't confuse lubrication and greasing: each component has its own specific needs.

Lubricants, grease? What are the differences?

Lubrication: For the drivetrain

The lubricant (oil or wax) reduces friction between the chain, sprockets and chainrings. The choice depends exclusively on your riding conditions.

• Dry Lube ("Dry" conditions): A light, fluid oil that does not attract dust or sand. It keeps the drivetrain clean but requires more frequent application as it is sensitive to moisture.
• Wet Lube ("Wet" conditions): A viscous, hydrophobic oil that resists rain and mud. It provides lasting protection against corrosion but clogs the chain faster in dry conditions.
• Wax Lubricant: The high-performance alternative. It creates a dry film on the chain that totally repels dirt. Performance is optimal, but the initial application requires a complete degreasing of a brand-new chain.

Grease: For bearings and assembly

Unlike lubricant, bike grease is thick and designed to stay in place on internal or fixed parts.

• Lithium / Universal Grease: For ball bearings (hubs, headsets, bottom brackets). It ensures mechanical smoothness and seals against water ingress.
• Teflon (PTFE) Grease: Ideal for cables, housing and lightly moving components. It leaves a protective film that reduces internal friction.
• Anti-Seize Grease: Essential for metal-on-metal assemblies (pedal threads, aluminium seatposts). It prevents cold welding caused by oxidation.

Specific cases: Carbon and Brakes

Fitting certain modern components requires the use of dedicated products to avoid damaging the materials.

• Carbon Assembly Paste: Unlike conventional grease, this paste contains micro-particles that increase friction. It allows components (seatpost, handlebar) to be tightened at lower torque values, preventing carbon fibre from cracking.
• Brake Cleaner: No grease or oil must touch your discs or pads. Use only a dedicated cleaner to degrease your braking surfaces without leaving residue.

Frequently asked questions?

Can I use standard WD-40 to lubricate my chain? This is a common mistake. WD-40 "Original" is a penetrating lubricant, not a long-lasting chain lube. It will clean your chain but evaporate very quickly, leaving the metal unprotected. Use only products from the "WD-40 Bike" range or dedicated lubricants.

How often should I lubricate my chain? As a general rule, as soon as your drivetrain becomes noisy (faint metallic clicking). In practice: after every wet ride (after cleaning and drying) or every 150–200 km in dry conditions.

Why should I wipe off excess lubricant after application? Lubrication must take place inside the chain links. Excess lubricant on the outside of the chain serves no mechanical purpose; on the contrary, it acts as a dust magnet and creates an abrasive paste that accelerates wear on your sprockets.

Should I grease the rails of a carbon saddle? No. For carbon saddle rails, use a dedicated carbon assembly paste. This will prevent the saddle from slipping and avoid unpleasant creaking without having to tighten the bolts beyond the manufacturer's recommendations.

How do I know if my bearings are lacking grease? If you feel "stiff spots" when turning your handlebars or spinning your bottom bracket with no load, or if you hear creaking during intense effort, it is time to disassemble, clean and re-grease. A bearing that "grinds" irreversibly must be replaced.

Is wax really more efficient than oil? Technically, yes. Friction tests show that wax offers better efficiency (watt savings). Above all, it keeps the drivetrain perfectly clean to the touch. However, it requires more rigorous maintenance (apply 3 hours before riding to allow drying).